Fellow Distillers

100 Years Project

Text and Photos by Brian Kowalczyk

In commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the birth of Japanese whisky, five of the industry’s major names put their minds and taste buds together to produce the Fellow Distillers 100 Years Project. Sure the companies are rival competitors, especially the big three, but that’s more on a corporate level. The master blenders are all gentlemen who appreciate a fine glass of whisky and have a healthy respect for their counterparts. It’s much easier for them to put aside any politics and collaborate on making excellent whisky.

As many are now familiar, in 1923 inspired by Scottish whisky, Shinjirō Torii founded the Yamazaki Whisky Distillery at the outskirts of Kyoto to produce a unique Japanese version of his beloved libation. This endeavor a century ago (now Suntory Whisky) is undisputedly considered the genesis of Japanese whisky. Also of note, Yamazaki’s original distiller, Masataka Taketsuru, who honed his skills in Scotland, branched off to start the Nikka Whisky distillery in Yoichi, Hokkaido in 1934. The two men sit atop the pantheon of the industry, revered by all one hundred years later.

Kirin Master Blender Jōta Tanaka

The Fellow Distillers, one from each of the five participating companies, are currently establishing their place in that pantheon. At Whisky Festival 2023 in Tokyo, put on by the Japan Whisky Research Centre during the first weekend in December, these blending wizards sat down for a special talk session to give us insight into the project they have been working on, mostly in secret, over the past few years. They are (in order officially introduced at the event):

• Master Blender Jōta Tanaka, Kirin
• Chief Blender Shinji Fukuyo, Suntory
• Chief Blender Hiromi Ozaki, Nikka
• Master Blender Ichirō Akuto, Venture Whisky
• Chief Blender Hajime Kunai, Hombō Shuzō (Mars Whisky)

Chief Blender Hajime Kunai (left) and Master Blender Ichirō Akuto (right)

The concept was for each to share genshu (unblended whisky) with the other distillers, then each distiller blended the five variations as they saw fit, also finishing that blend in barrels of their choosing. This created five distinct whiskies that varied quite significantly in aroma and flavor. For example, Suntory highlighted its blend with a subtle peatiness not evident in the other whiskies, while Venture finished its version in mizunara barrels, which comes through in the aromatics and on the palate.

I was fortunate to have the chance to try all five versions available for tasting at the event. As one would expect, all were top-notch and a delight to sample, even in such tiny doses.There were no bottles for sale, nor are there any planned to be, from what we are told. What was offered at the event was all that the public will be getting a taste of unless the Fellow Distillers have another secret agenda that they are waiting to spring on us in the future. Whisky fans undoubtedly hope that is the case! Dare to dream, fellow drinkers!